Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the plant from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any circled or tangled roots.
Position in hole and backfill with soil, gently firming down. Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant's root zone. This helps keep water where it's needed. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes.
Mulch around the base with organic mulch like bark chips, sugarcane or pea straw, keeping it away from the trunk.
Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.
Mixed with soft perennials they create ‘statues’ of sculptural interest in garden beds and can also work well planted amongst clumps of ornamental grasses such as Orange Sedge (Carex testacea). This combination creates a wonderful texture contrast and the deep purple Aeonium foliage works so well with the dusty orange foliage of the sedge. This design tip comes from Phillip Withers, an award winning Australian landscape designer. For more information on Phillip’s inspiring garden designs visit www.phillipwithers.com
Aeoniums are quite low maintenance, though enjoy a healthy winter prune to avoid getting leggy. They look best as a nice bushy round yet natural shape.
As they get taller they lose the lower foliage and become sparse and leggy especially during hot humid summers.
Pruning will not restore a dense bushy habit. Instead it is best to take cuttings and replace old plants with new, after 5 years. Do this in early summer, make sure the stems dry and callus (in a cool place out of direct sunlight) before placing into a sandy propagating mix, keep just moist until rooted then re-plant into your prepared garden bed or container.
Prune the flowers back in late spring to tidy the plant.