How to Prune Roses

Sharpen your pruning tools. The sharper the blade is, the smoother the cut will be. Having a smooth cut will reduce the chances for diseases to get in.

You can also disinfect your pruning tool with a 9:1 mixture of water (9 parts) and bleach (1 part). This is encouraged for plants that are known to have diseases such as Rose Canker.

Prune off stems and branches that are dead, diseased or damaged. Also, prune any stems or branches that are crossing or rubbing.

Prune off suckers ('water shoots') - these shoots are usually green and soft and grow vertically.

For old Rose bushes, prune off any of the old woody canes using loppers or a bush saw.

Now that the plant is looking tidier, it's time to prune to shape. Prune so that all the stems and branches are facing outwards and the centre is open. The end result should look like a vase or a 'V' shape.

Prune up to two-thirds of the plant height and remove any remaining leaves.

Spray the stems, branches and trunk with Yates Lime Sulfur to help clean up pests and diseases (Two-Spotted Mite, Powdery Mildew and Scale).

Sharpen your pruning tools. The sharper the blade is, the smoother the cut will be. Having a smooth cut will reduce the chances for diseases to get in.

You can also disinfect your pruning tool with a 9:1 mixture of water (9 parts) and bleach (1 part). This is encouraged for plants that are known to have diseases such as Rose Canker.

Prune off stems and branches that are dead, diseased or damaged. Also, prune any stems or branches that are crossing or rubbing.

Try to remove spent/dead flowers as you notice them. This will stop the plant from fruiting and help encourage more flowers. However, if you want to grow your Rose plant for the Rose-hips, then skip this step.

If you notice any leggy growth or wayward stems, prune these off so that plant keeps a nice shape.

Roses flower better when they are hard-pruned each year. The reason is that old growth does not flower as prolifically as new growth.

Plants are healthier when dead and diseased growth is pruned as it has less pests and diseases to fend off.

Plants look neater and tidier when they are kept smaller because the foliage and flowers looks fresher.

Removing the spent flowers (pinch-pruning) regularly during the flowering season will stop the plant from fruiting which promotes more flowering.

Always use sharp and clean pruning tools - not only is it easier to make cuts, but it is healthier for the plant too.

Cut on an angle so the water doesn't pool on a horizontal surface.

Cut slightly above a growth-bud/growth-point. If you aren't sure what this is, look at the stem or branch, and where you can see a leaf or another branch growing, cut slightly above this point. 

If you have seen any pests or diseases while pruning, destroy the clippings (pruned plant material) either in a fire, or by disposing of in the green bin.

Hard winter pruning is recommended for bush and shrub roses, including Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Roses.

Climbing roses require slightly different treatment. Give them a light prune in winter, saving their main prune for after flowering in spring, removing old canes and dead wood and shortening the canes which remain.

For Roses that flower only in spring, wait until the flowers have finished, then hard-prune.

Most Roses are hard-pruned in mid to late winter after the last frosts.

For spring-flowering-only Roses that are hard-pruned after flowering (i.e. late spring or early summer).

You can also light prune in summer, cutting back a third of plant height. This will help bring on a second flush of blooms in autumn. Just be sure to feed the plant to maximise the flowering season, and keep plants growing and healthy. Feed with Yates Thrive Natural for Roses & Flowers Organic Based Pelletised Plant Food. 

For thin stems, use bypass secateurs - don't use anvil secateurs as these are mostly used for dead wood.

For larger stems that are too thick for secateurs, use loppers.

For woody branches that are too thick for loppers, use a bush saw or band saw.